Fabric brief for the Shanghai office 上海办公室 · 面料工作清单

Visit week of 7 Sep 2026 · Teresa & Mireia Ready by Fri 4 Sep 2026 截止 9月4日 This is not a purchase order 这不是采购订单

What we need before we arrive 我们到达之前需要准备的

Teresa and Mireia are in Shanghai the week of 7 September 2026. Please have as much as possible ready by Friday 4 September. If something cannot be ready, tell us now — we will re-plan around it.

This is not a purchase order. 这不是采购订单。

Every quote: RMB/m including VAT and shipping, with MOQ per colour, lead time and roll width. MOQ above 300 m per colour makes a fabric unusable for us. 每色起订量超过 300 米的面料我们无法使用。

Every new candidate: 2 hangers (one stays in Shanghai, one to Barcelona), weight g/m², thread count, ply, composition, weave, finish, and a lab report (shrinkage, colour fastness, pilling, tear strength).

A substitute must beat the current fabric on every point and lose on none. Hand-feel is decided in person during the visit. 手感在现场确认。

The five jobs 五项任务

The three dates that cannot move 三个不能延后的日期

17 Oct 2026Wiggins — the new black must be ordered by this date or the article goes out of stock. Five weeks after the visit, so it has to be decided while we are there.
21 Oct 2026Mayfield — the new oxford (121346, Mashen) must be ordered by this date, for the merged volume of ~10,300 m/year.
10 Dec 2026Sunders — new card 1086. Then Karels 4 Jan and Blazies 23 Jan 2027.

Who to answer 回复给谁

Answer by task number. Questions to Teresa or Mireia. Anything about purchase orders, delivery or warehousing, copy Humbert.

1 · Quality upgrades — white shirts and suits 质量升级:白衬衫与西装

We need from you 需要你们准备
  1. 4 white types + Jacob: 3–5 candidates each, with 2 hangers, price at 300 m and 1,000 m, MOQ, lead time and lab report. 每类 3–5 个候选,各 2 个挂样
  2. Oberon: a higher-quality substitute. New request — nothing has been proposed yet. 需要更高质量的替代面料,这是新需求
  3. Wiggins: 2–3 black candidates from Nishioka (JP) and 2–3 from Doriani (IT). 各 2–3 个黑色候选
  4. Card 1086: quote the new card for all four colours, 2 hangers per colour, and the exact weight on a 144 cm roll. 新色卡报价,每色 2 个挂样,144cm 幅宽实测克重
  5. Colour card of every white quality we keep or introduce — physically in the Shanghai office for the visit. They gate Task 2. 所有白色质量的色卡,现场备齐

Shirt whites — the 8 target types 白衬衫 · 八个目标类型

Four types still have no candidate (3, 5, 7, 8) and Jacob (type 2) is not active in Pandoo. Target price is RMB/m incl. VAT and shipping.

#Type类型Fabric面料Code编码RMB/m价格12m usage12月用量Action行动
1Entry oxford入门牛津
40×40 2-ply
Woodsdatlei Confirm需确认
100% cotton · oxford · 136 g/m²
WoodsdatleiWoodsdatlei · 121346 · Mashenclose 关闭 ✕
12134618.810,283
Mayfield 8,274 + Woodsdatlei 2,009
Takes over the Mayfield name and record. Quote Mashen for the merged volume ~10,300 m/year. Confirm MOQ and lead time.
2Premium oxford高级牛津
80×80 2-ply, liquid ammonia
Jacob Confirm需确认29.8Not active in Pandoo. First tell us which reference this is — Andreu thinks it may be the Uniqlo one. Then supplier, code, MOQ, lead time, roll width, weight, lab report and 2 hangers.
3Cotton spandex棉弹
60×60, 3% spandex
— to be found — To source需要寻找22–25Quality level of Kaliman. 3–5 candidates.
4Premium cotton spandex高级棉弹
Kaliman Have it已有
98% cotton / 2% spandex · twill · 138 g/m²
KalimanKaliman · CAKQW04451-2000830-1-SC · Luth.-Maggieclose 关闭 ✕
CAKQW04451-2000830-1-SC34.72,509Keep. Confirm price stability — no increase accepted.
5Basic twill基础斜纹
50×50 2-ply
— to be found — To source需要寻找25–323–5 candidates.
6Premium twill高级斜纹
100/2 × 100/2
Victory Have it已有
100% cotton · serge · 128 g/m²
VictoryVictory · CH0097WHT · Jamesclose 关闭 ✕
CH0097WHT39.7216Keep. Confirm price and MOQ.
7Cotton / polyester棉涤
40×40 2-ply
— to be found — To source需要寻找18–24Entry tier. 3–5 candidates.
8Cotton poplin全棉府绸
40/2 × 40/2
— to be found — To source需要寻找18–243–5 candidates.

Suits — quality changes 西装 · 质量变更

Fabric面料Code编码Supplier供应商12m usage12月用量RMB/m价格What we need需求
Oberon New request新需求
80% polyester / 20% viscosa · twill · 170 g/m²
OberonOberon · SD2208 · Songdaclose 关闭 ✕
SD2208Songda3,45128.0Higher quality substitute — no candidates yet.
Our #5 suit fabric and only 170 g/m². We want ≥240 g/m², better hand, same season (autumn/mid-season), up to 35 RMB/m. 3–5 candidates + hangers. Songda is also a tail supplier — see Task 3.
Wiggins Confirm需确认
50% wool / 33% polyester / 10% bamboo / 7% lycra · plain weave · 260 g/m²
WigginsWiggins · A27206/7 · HSFclose 关闭 ✕
A27206/7HSF1,72378.0New black quality, same name and record.
Black, plain weave, ≥260 g/m², hangers, priced against 78.0 RMB. Two candidates are on the table and each has one open question:
Jiangsu Textile (Doriani economy line) — confirm the exact composition; we understand ~70% wool against the current 50%.
Nishioka90-day production does not fit. Stock runs out 23 Nov. Can they hold stock for us? If not, they cannot supply this article.
HSF — they already make it, have 21 fabrics with us and a sister code A27206/5. Can they upgrade it themselves? That would avoid opening a supplier for one fabric. Hard date — see the calendar below.
Sunders Confirm需确认
78% terylene / 18% rayon / 4% spandex · twill · 210 g/m²
SundersSunders · 1086 - 23 · Shaoxingclose 关闭 ✕
1086 - 23Shaoxing10,63917.6 → 19.6Card 1086 — new card, 210 → 270 g/m².
Quote the new card. 2 hangers per colour. MOQ, lead time, price at 300 / 1,000 / 2,000 m. The current card is 210 g/m², measured on a previous visit — confirm the exact weight of the new one on a 144 cm roll.
Karels Confirm需确认
78% terylene / 18% rayon / 4% spandex · twill · 210 g/m²
KarelsKarels · 1086 - 21 · Shaoxingclose 关闭 ✕
1086 - 21Shaoxing8,31017.6 → 19.6Card 1086 — same change.
Same as Sunders.
Blazies Confirm需确认
78% terylene / 18% rayon / 4% spandex · twill · 210 g/m²
BlaziesBlazies · 1086 - 19 · Shaoxingclose 关闭 ✕
1086 - 19Shaoxing3,23617.6 → 19.6Card 1086 — same change.
Same as Sunders.
Garids Confirm需确认
78% terylene / 18% rayon / 4% spandex · twill · 210 g/m²
GaridsGarids · 1086 - 8 · Shaoxingclose 关闭 ✕
1086 - 8Shaoxing19117.6 → 19.6Card 1086 — same change.
Same as Sunders. Low volume.
Bologna Do not reorder不要补货
69% polyester / 31% viscosa · twill · 176 g/m²
BolognaBologna · A03011 · HUADAclose 关闭 ✕
A03011HUADA1,67028.0Out of collection, no replacement.
Volume moves to the new black Sunders. Closes the HUADA account.

Calendar — when each old quality runs out 日历 · 旧质量售罄时间

Stock is live from our purchasing screen, 18 August 2026. Do not commit any more of these fabrics at the mills, and if a mill offers a promotional lot on any of them, decline it. Tell us if anything is already in production or in transit. 不要再向工厂下单这些面料。

Fabric面料Code编码Stock now库存Runs out售罄New quality ordered by最晚下单Status状态
Benson
100% cotton · 118 g/m²
BensonBenson · CH0179WHT · Jamesclose 关闭 ✕
CH0179WHT2252026-10-15Out of collection淘汰
White leaving.
Acton
100% tencel · serge · 165 g/m²
ActonActon · Z1575-C64 · Zorotexclose 关闭 ✕
Z1575-C642382026-11-14Out of collection淘汰
White leaving. Zorotex is a tail supplier.
Mayfield
100% cotton · poplin · 110 g/m²
MayfieldMayfield · 041727-01 · Jamesclose 关闭 ✕
041727-012,4192026-11-172026-10-21New quality, same name换质量·名称不变
Becomes the Type 1 oxford (121346, Mashen).
Wiggins
50% wool / 33% polyester / 10% bamboo / 7% lycra · plain weave · 260 g/m²
WigginsWiggins · A27206/7 · HSFclose 关闭 ✕
A27206/75302026-11-232026-10-17New quality, same name换质量·名称不变
New black from Nishioka or Doriani.
Impression
93% cotton / 7% silk · dobby · 118 g/m²
ImpressionImpression · SS2503-01 · Jamesclose 关闭 ✕
SS2503-012862026-11-27Out of collection淘汰
White leaving.
Hunt
96% cotton / 4% spandex · poplin · 119 g/m²
HuntHunt · CK11902354-1 · Luth.-Maggieclose 关闭 ✕
CK11902354-13392026-12-07Out of collection淘汰
White leaving.
Woodsdatlei
100% cotton · oxford · 136 g/m²
WoodsdatleiWoodsdatlei · 121346 · Mashenclose 关闭 ✕
1213467772026-12-21Merged into Mayfield并入 Mayfield
Cloth 121346 keeps being bought, under the Mayfield name.
Bologna
69% polyester / 31% viscosa · twill · 176 g/m²
BolognaBologna · A03011 · HUADAclose 关闭 ✕
A030116152026-12-21Out of collection淘汰
No replacement.
Beverly
100% cotton · poplin · 112 g/m²
BeverlyBeverly · 080929-01 · Jamesclose 关闭 ✕
080929-019382026-12-25Out of collection淘汰
White leaving.
Seren
100% cotton · 128 g/m²
SerenSeren · CM0217WHT · Jamesclose 关闭 ✕
CM0217WHT9302027-01-01Out of collection淘汰
White leaving.
Sunders
78% terylene / 18% rayon / 4% spandex · twill · 210 g/m²
SundersSunders · 1086 - 23 · Shaoxingclose 关闭 ✕
1086 - 234,2102027-01-062026-12-10New quality, same name换质量·名称不变
Card 1086, new card.
Karels
78% terylene / 18% rayon / 4% spandex · twill · 210 g/m²
KarelsKarels · 1086 - 21 · Shaoxingclose 关闭 ✕
1086 - 213,7662027-01-312027-01-04New quality, same name换质量·名称不变
Card 1086, new card.
Blazies
78% terylene / 18% rayon / 4% spandex · twill · 210 g/m²
BlaziesBlazies · 1086 - 19 · Shaoxingclose 关闭 ✕
1086 - 191,5952027-02-192027-01-23New quality, same name换质量·名称不变
Card 1086, new card.
Garids
78% terylene / 18% rayon / 4% spandex · twill · 210 g/m²
GaridsGarids · 1086 - 8 · Shaoxingclose 关闭 ✕
1086 - 81892027-07-27New quality, same name换质量·名称不变
Card 1086, new card.

Where the column New quality ordered by is empty, the fabric simply leaves the collection and nothing has to be ordered for it. Where it has a date, the article stays on sale and the new quality must be bought before that day.

2 · Blue shirts — from 48 down to about 32 蓝色衬衫:从 48 支减到约 32 支

We need from you 需要你们准备
  1. For each of the 8 approved white qualities, tell us which blue shades exist in that same quality. We want a blue shirt and a white shirt of the same type to behave the same way. This is the main job. 每个已确认的白色质量,提供同质量的蓝色色号。这是最重要的一项
  2. Then pair them up. For every blue in the keep list, tell us which of the 8 white qualities it could be re-made in — fill in the last column of that table, or write none. Quote each pairing as a new fabric, with its own code. We decide the final pairings together during the visit. 为「保留」清单中的每一支蓝色,指出它可以用哪一个白色质量重新制作,填在表格最后一栏;没有合适的写 none。按新面料报价
  3. Hangers of those blues, ready in Shanghai for the visit. Three we already know we want: Woodsdatlei in blue (type 1), the blue card of Jacob once the white is confirmed (type 2), and the blue card of Victory you have already sent us (type 6). 这些蓝色的挂样,现场备齐
  4. Hangers of the 48 blues in the two lists below, grouped the same way, so we can compare them side by side. Nothing for the last list — those we have already stopped buying. 下面两个清单共 48 支的挂样,按同样分组。最后一个清单不用准备
  5. For those 48: flag any the supplier has discontinued or repriced, and any with MOQ above 300 m. 标出已停产、已调价,或起订量超过 300 米的
48blue shirt fabrics we are still buying 在售且仍在补货的蓝色面料
32we propose to keep — 87% of blue volume 我们建议保留
16we propose to drop · 1,809 m stock, 52,116 RMB 我们建议淘汰
17already stopped — not part of this decision 已停止补货,不在本次决定范围

The two lists below are our proposal, decided on volume. Nothing is final — we confirm it in person with you during the visit. 现场共同确认。 The pairing matters more than the cut: a blue that can be re-made in one of the 8 approved white qualities is worth keeping even at modest volume, because it makes the collection one system.

Proposal: keep — 32 fabrics 建议保留 · 32 支

#Fabric面料Code编码Supplier供应商Shade色调12m usage12月用量RMB/m价格Stock库存Which white quality?配哪个白色质量?
1
Cranbins
100% cotton · oxford · 140 g/m²
CranbinsCranbins · 121349 · Mashenclose 关闭 ✕
121349Mashenlight blue1,23818.8500type __ / none
2
Werd
100% cotton · poplin · 112 g/m²
WerdWerd · CH0034SBU · Jamesclose 关闭 ✕
CH0034SBUJameslight blue1,10236.0507type __ / none
3
Bort
65% cotton / 35% polyester · poplin · 110 g/m²
BortBort · 330 · Yiwu Qiaoruiclose 关闭 ✕
330Yiwu Qiaoruideep blue80712.0240type __ / none
4
Vargas
71% cotton / 25% nylon / 4% spandex · poplin · 98 g/m²
VargasVargas · 121442 · Mashenclose 关闭 ✕
121442Mashenlight blue64522.0342type __ / none
5
McAllen
50% bamboo / 50% polyester · chambray · 142 g/m²
McAllenMcAllen · 4S21031-1 · Jamesclose 关闭 ✕
4S21031-1Jameslight blue62220.0408type __ / none
6
Carver
100% cotton · 128 g/m²
CarverCarver · CM0217LBU · Jamesclose 关闭 ✕
CM0217LBUJameslight blue57621.9323type __ / none
7
Declan
100% cotton · poplin · 105 g/m²
DeclanDeclan · 7 · Yiwu Qiaoruiclose 关闭 ✕
7Yiwu Qiaoruicobalt blue54816.3214type __ / none
8
Gilliam
100% cotton · poplin · 114 g/m²
GilliamGilliam · 121806 · Mashenclose 关闭 ✕
121806Mashenroyal blue54418.4276type __ / none
9
Villiers
100% cotton · twill · 133 g/m²
VilliersVilliers · 120356 · Mashenclose 关闭 ✕
120356Mashenblue52934.6261type __ / none
10
Curtis
98% cotton / 2% spandex · twill · 138 g/m²
CurtisCurtis · CAKQ04451-2000830-2-SC · Luth.-Maggieclose 关闭 ✕
CAKQ04451-2000830-2-SCLuth.-Maggiepastel blue48934.7210Type 4 — Kaliman
already the same quality, confirmed
11
Aruba
55% linen / 45% cotton · 145 g/m²
ArubaAruba · LFXY2636-21 · Sammyclose 关闭 ✕
LFXY2636-21Sammylight blue47525.0571type __ / none
12
Ewing
100% cotton · oxford · 184 g/m²
EwingEwing · 121464 · Mashenclose 关闭 ✕
121464Mashenlight blue42620.498type __ / none
13
Vega
55% linen / 45% cotton · broadcloth · 135 g/m²
VegaVega · 317#136 · Zhongmaclose 关闭 ✕
317#136Zhongmanavy blue41721.5310type __ / none
14
Berry
96% cotton / 4% spandex · poplin · 119 g/m²
BerryBerry · CK11902356-1 · Luth.-Maggieclose 关闭 ✕
CK11902356-1Luth.-Maggienavy blue40633.9123type __ / none
15
Yari
100% cotton · oxford · 184 g/m²
YariYari · 121457 · Mashenclose 关闭 ✕
121457Mashennavy blue37720.4107type __ / none
16
Mountbou
55% linen / 45% cotton · poplin · 127 g/m²
MountbouMountbou · LFWF180406-128 · Sammyclose 关闭 ✕
LFWF180406-128Sammydusty blue36827.2252type __ / none
17
Beaumont
50% bamboo / 50% polyester · chambray · 142 g/m²
BeaumontBeaumont · 4S21031-5 · Jamesclose 关闭 ✕
4S21031-5Jamesmid blue36120.0121type __ / none
18
Stonearby
100% cotton · poplin · 111 g/m²
StonearbyStonearby · 121068 · Mashenclose 关闭 ✕
121068Mashenlight blue34918.4130type __ / none
19
Villa
71% cotton / 25% nylon / 4% spandex · poplin · 98 g/m²
VillaVilla · 121473 · Mashenclose 关闭 ✕
121473Mashenblue34621.2141type __ / none
20
Cally
71% cotton / 25% nylon / 4% spandex · poplin · 98 g/m²
CallyCally · 121252 · Mashenclose 关闭 ✕
121252Mashenlight blue34321.2184type __ / none
21
Grace
55% linen / 45% cotton · 145 g/m²
GraceGrace · LFXY2636-69 · Sammyclose 关闭 ✕
LFXY2636-69Sammysteel blue30925.0313type __ / none
22
Wembley tail supplier 小供应商
100% tencel · serge · 165 g/m²
WembleyWembley · Z1575-C74 · Zorotexclose 关闭 ✕
Z1575-C74Zorotexnavy blue29533.0153type __ / none
23
Tamhard
55% cotton / 45% polyester · poplin · 114 g/m²
TamhardTamhard · CL16-3922 · Jamesclose 关闭 ✕
CL16-3922Jamespastel blue29116.8106type __ / none
24
Rayside
100% cotton · poplin · 111 g/m²
RaysideRayside · 121067 · Mashenclose 关闭 ✕
121067Mashenlight blue28818.4192type __ / none
25
Dillip
100% cotton · poplin · 114 g/m²
DillipDillip · 121759 · Mashenclose 关闭 ✕
121759Mashenlight blue28318.4128type __ / none
26
Northfields
85% cotton / 15% polyester · herringbone · 122 g/m²
NorthfieldsNorthfields · CL0070-02 · Jamesclose 关闭 ✕
CL0070-02Jameslight blue26233.9110type __ / none
27
East Finchley tail supplier 小供应商
100% tencel · serge · 165 g/m²
East FinchleyEast Finchley · Z1575-C37 · Zorotexclose 关闭 ✕
Z1575-C37Zorotexlight blue25533.0255type __ / none
28
Tasnim
100% cotton · knitted · 162 g/m²
TasnimTasnim · CZ11733933-1 · Luth.-Maggieclose 关闭 ✕
CZ11733933-1Luth.-Maggielight blue24329.7208type __ / none
29
Aedan
71% cotton / 25% nylon / 4% spandex · poplin · 98 g/m²
AedanAedan · 121443 · Mashenclose 关闭 ✕
121443Mashenmid blue23022.093type __ / none
30
Miles
100% cotton · knitted · 135 g/m²
MilesMiles · CZY41901703-1 · Luth.-Maggieclose 关闭 ✕
CZY41901703-1Luth.-Maggiedeep blue22942.4132type __ / none
31
Akaleya
100% cotton · jacquard · 122 g/m²
AkaleyaAkaleya · 1535959-3A · Luthaiclose 关闭 ✕
1535959-3ALuthaiblue21330.8173type __ / none
32
Copthall
100% cotton · royal oxford · 114 g/m²
CopthallCopthall · C11434722-2 · Luth.-Maggieclose 关闭 ✕
C11434722-2Luth.-Maggielight blue19830.1101type __ / none

Proposal: drop — 16 fabrics 建议淘汰 · 16 支

#Fabric面料Code编码Supplier供应商Shade色调12m usage12月用量RMB/m价格Stock库存
1
Cranage
100% cotton · herringbone · 127 g/m²
CranageCranage · C11415542-4 · Luth.-Maggieclose 关闭 ✕
C11415542-4Luth.-Maggielight blue18431.8149
2
NottingHill
100% cotton · printed · 115 g/m²
NottingHillNottingHill · PRT10021 · Luth.-Maggieclose 关闭 ✕
PRT10021Luth.-Maggiedeep blue18234.370
3
Rees
100% cotton · flannel · 137 g/m²
ReesRees · 1719973-5 · Luthaiclose 关闭 ✕
1719973-5Luthaisteel blue17825.391
4
Zander
100% cotton · seersucker · 130 g/m²
ZanderZander · 155-2 · Changzhou Merisclose 关闭 ✕
155-2Changzhou Merisblue17418.0154
5
Brixton
100% cotton · serge · 106 g/m²
BrixtonBrixton · 4S21130-1 · Jamesclose 关闭 ✕
4S21130-1Jameslight blue17225.3118
6
Peckham
75% cotton / 25% polyester · herringbone · 126 g/m²
PeckhamPeckham · CL0053-03 · Jamesclose 关闭 ✕
CL0053-03Jameslight blue16428.5122
7
Marmion
100% cotton · royal oxford · 114 g/m²
MarmionMarmion · C11434722-5 · Luth.-Maggieclose 关闭 ✕
C11434722-5Luth.-Maggiemid blue16330.1106
8
Hammersmith
100% cotton · poplin · 120 g/m²
HammersmithHammersmith · PRT10011 · Luth.-Maggieclose 关闭 ✕
PRT10011Luth.-Maggiedark blue15830.178
9
Whistler
93% cotton / 7% silk · dobby · 118 g/m²
WhistlerWhistler · SS2503-02 · Jamesclose 关闭 ✕
SS2503-02Jamesblue11633.0146
10
Meninas
100% cotton · 110 g/m²
MeninasMeninas · CAW04041-1913646-1-YH · Luth.-Maggieclose 关闭 ✕
CAW04041-1913646-1-YHLuth.-Maggienavy blue11234.6109
11
Walthamstow
100% cotton · flannel · 165 g/m²
WalthamstowWalthamstow · GAW2414-2 · Jamesclose 关闭 ✕
GAW2414-2Jamessteel blue10421.392
12
Klein
100% cotton · micro corduroy · 205 g/m²
KleinKlein · CORDUROY-5#darkblue · ORNANclose 关闭 ✕
CORDUROY-5#darkblueORNANnavy blue9728.5183
13
Venus
100% cotton · 125 g/m²
VenusVenus · CAW04041-1643369-1-YH · Luth.-Maggieclose 关闭 ✕
CAW04041-1643369-1-YHLuth.-Maggienavy blue6832.694
14
Killeen
50% cotton / 50% tencel · serge · 100 g/m²
KilleenKilleen · GAW2542-1 · Jamesclose 关闭 ✕
GAW2542-1Jamesdusty blue5821.9140
15
Perla
100% cotton · jacquard · 123 g/m²
PerlaPerla · CD41535959-2 · Luth.-Maggieclose 关闭 ✕
CD41535959-2Luth.-Maggielight blue4933.849
16
Colossus
100% cotton · other · 114 g/m²
ColossusColossus · GAW2515-1 · Jamesclose 关闭 ✕
GAW2515-1Jameslight blue4240.4107

Already stopped — 17 fabrics, nothing to do 已停止补货 · 17 支,无需处理

We stopped reordering these some time ago; they leave the collection when the 1,567 m we still hold runs out. No hangers and no substitutes for these — they are here only so the list adds up to 65. 这些不用准备挂样,也不用找替代。

#Fabric面料Code编码Supplier供应商Shade色调12m usage12月用量RMB/m价格Stock库存
1
Crowley Already stopped已停止补货
60% cotton / 40% polyester · poplin · 114 g/m²
CrowleyCrowley · JF16-4031 · Jamesclose 关闭 ✕
JF16-4031Jamesmid blue20916.8147
2
Mcgowan Already stopped已停止补货
71% cotton / 25% nylon / 4% spandex · poplin · 98 g/m²
McgowanMcgowan · 121242 · Mashenclose 关闭 ✕
121242Mashenlight blue19221.2150
3
Everest Already stopped已停止补货
100% cotton · pinpoint · 129 g/m²
EverestEverest · 070057-01 · Jamesclose 关闭 ✕
070057-01Jameslight blue16631.860
4
Newman Already stopped已停止补货
55% polyester / 45% cotton · knitted · 130 g/m²
NewmanNewman · MZ11900241-2 · Luth.-Maggieclose 关闭 ✕
MZ11900241-2Luth.-Maggielight blue16236.4136
5
Katell Already stopped已停止补货
100% cotton · poplin · 114 g/m²
KatellKatell · 121864 · Mashenclose 关闭 ✕
121864Mashenlight blue15719.2147
6
Mckee Already stopped已停止补货
100% cotton · knitted · 160 g/m²
MckeeMckee · CZY11904626-1 · Luth.-Maggieclose 关闭 ✕
CZY11904626-1Luth.-Maggielight blue14844.1152
7
Jace Already stopped已停止补货
100% cotton · dobby · 112 g/m²
JaceJace · CAQ04043-1406052-1 · Luthaiclose 关闭 ✕
CAQ04043-1406052-1Luthaiblue14132.755
8
Lubbock Already stopped已停止补货
75% cottonbci / 25% tencellyocell · chambray · 122 g/m²
LubbockLubbock · SS2317-03 · Jamesclose 关闭 ✕
SS2317-03Jamesmid blue12727.9159
9
Elvitt Already stopped已停止补货
100% cotton · flannel · 137 g/m²
ElvittElvitt · 1719973-3-Y · Luthaiclose 关闭 ✕
1719973-3-YLuthaifaded blue11125.3102
10
Yama Already stopped已停止补货
100% cotton · poplin · 112 g/m²
YamaYama · SS1909-01 · Jamesclose 关闭 ✕
SS1909-01Jamesblue9732.0156
11
Soho tail supplier 小供应商 Already stopped已停止补货
100% cotton · knitted · 210 g/m²
SohoSoho · ChenShan B003/34 · DINGZHENclose 关闭 ✕
ChenShan B003/34DINGZHENdark blue9437.077
12
Songin Already stopped已停止补货
100% cotton · dobby · 112 g/m²
SonginSongin · 121303 · Mashenclose 关闭 ✕
121303Mashenlight blue7232.3192
13
Plano Already stopped已停止补货
75% cotton / 25% tencellyocell · chambray · 122 g/m²
PlanoPlano · SS2317-04 · Jamesclose 关闭 ✕
SS2317-04Jamessteel blue6927.933
14
Bakers Already stopped已停止补货
96% cotton / 4% lycra · poplin · 115 g/m²
BakersBakers · CM0096DNY · Jamesclose 关闭 ✕
CM0096DNYJamesnavy blue423.40
15
Haskell Already stopped已停止补货
100% cotton · poplin · 140 g/m²
HaskellHaskell · CM0128DBU · Jamesclose 关闭 ✕
CM0128DBUJamessteel blue019.50
16
Gonzalez Already stopped已停止补货
100% cotton · 110 g/m²
GonzalezGonzalez · CQ04041-2007514-1 · Luthaiclose 关闭 ✕
CQ04041-2007514-1Luthailight blue027.60
17
Kayak Already stopped已停止补货
100% cotton · poplin · 130 g/m²
KayakKayak · Kayak 2 · —close 关闭 ✕
Kayak 2blue025.50

3 · Supplier consolidation — 29 fabrics, 16 small suppliers 供应商整合

We need from you 需要你们准备
  1. For each fabric below, find an equivalent among our main suppliers of the same line — a shirt fabric is replaced by a shirt supplier. 在同品类的主要供应商中寻找等同面料
  2. Send: equivalent code, price RMB/m, MOQ, lead time, and a hanger of the substitute next to the current fabric. 提供:替代编码、价格、起订量、交期,以及与现用面料并排的挂样
  3. The ones marked Already stopped, Nothing to do or Do not reorder need no substitute — that is 11 of the 29. Only 18 need one. Do not spend time on the rest. 其中 11 支不需要替代,真正需要的只有 18 支
  4. Four active fabrics have no supplier in PandooKayak 2, mj002, 13-6161/10# and 981638-3 (Abbott). Assign the supplier and confirm they then appear in the stock screen. 四支面料在 Pandoo 中没有供应商,请补录
40suppliers in total 供应商总数
16with 3 fabrics or fewer 只有 3 支或更少
18fabrics that need a substitute — of 29 in total 真正需要替代的面料
11already stopped, nothing to do 已停止补货
8.8%of our fabric spend · 544,789 RMB / 12m 占面料支出

Main suppliers 主要供应商

Shirts 衬衫: James, Luthai-Maggie, Mashen, Sammy

Suits 西装: Sammy, Eric, HSF, Shaoxing, Zhongma, Summer, JRL

A candidate from a main supplier wins over an equal candidate from a new one.

Fabric面料Code编码Type品类Shade色调12m usage12月用量RMB/m价格What we need需求
Songda · 2 fabric(s) · 112,498 RMB / 12m
Oberon To source需要寻找
80% polyester / 20% viscosa · twill · 170 g/m²
OberonOberon · SD2208 · Songdaclose 关闭 ✕
SD2208suitnavy blue3,45128.0Substitute must also be a quality upgrade — see Task 1.
Wilkerson To source需要寻找
80% polyester / 20% rayon · dobby · 193 g/m²
WilkersonWilkerson · 878-black · Songdaclose 关闭 ✕
878-blacksuitblack52930.0Find an equivalent from a main suit supplier.
Feng Sui · 3 fabric(s) · 60,826 RMB / 12m
Cambrin To source需要寻找
69% polyester / 29% rayon / 2% spandex · plain weave · 315 g/m²
CambrinCambrin · X1006-5 · Feng Suiclose 关闭 ✕
X1006-5suitdark blue87427.0Find an equivalent from a main suit supplier.
Edinworth To source需要寻找
69% polyester / 29% rayon / 2% spandex · twill · 245 g/m²
EdinworthEdinworth · FS1011-3 · Feng Suiclose 关闭 ✕
FS1011-3suitcobalt blue80326.0Find an equivalent from a main suit supplier.
Kensingate To source需要寻找
69% polyester / 29% rayon / 2% spandex · plain weave · 315 g/m²
KensingateKensingate · X1006-4 · Feng Suiclose 关闭 ✕
X1006-4suitcharcoal65425.0Find an equivalent from a main suit supplier.
WF · 2 fabric(s) · 54,514 RMB / 12m
Sortino To source需要寻找
100% linen · plain weave · 160 g/m²
SortinoSortino · L00866 · WFclose 关闭 ✕
L00866suitnavy blue87046.5Find an equivalent from a main suit supplier.
Orca To source需要寻找
100% linen · broadcloth · 135 g/m²
OrcaOrca · L312103 · WFclose 关闭 ✕
L312103shirtonyx55925.1Find an equivalent from a main shirt supplier.
HUADA · 1 fabric(s) · 46,760 RMB / 12m · nothing to do — we have already stopped buying all of them. This supplier closes by itself. 已全部停止补货,该供应商自然结束
Bologna Already stopped已停止补货
69% polyester / 31% viscosa · twill · 176 g/m²
BolognaBologna · A03011 · HUADAclose 关闭 ✕
A03011suitonyx1,67028.0No substitute needed. We have stopped reordering it. Its volume moves to the new black Sunders.
Zorotex · 3 fabric(s) · 43,956 RMB / 12m
Acton Already stopped已停止补货
100% tencel · serge · 165 g/m²
ActonActon · Z1575-C64 · Zorotexclose 关闭 ✕
Z1575-C64shirtivory78233.0No substitute needed. We have stopped reordering it — it is one of the shirt whites leaving the collection.
Wembley To source需要寻找
100% tencel · serge · 165 g/m²
WembleyWembley · Z1575-C74 · Zorotexclose 关闭 ✕
Z1575-C74shirtnavy blue29533.0Find an equivalent from a main shirt supplier.
East Finchley To source需要寻找
100% tencel · serge · 165 g/m²
East FinchleyEast Finchley · Z1575-C37 · Zorotexclose 关闭 ✕
Z1575-C37shirtlight blue25533.0Find an equivalent from a main shirt supplier.
LE Gioventu · 2 fabric(s) · 36,137 RMB / 12m
Mcintyre To source需要寻找
100% wool · filafil · 140 g/m²
McintyreMcintyre · 281091-1 · LE Gioventuclose 关闭 ✕
281091-1suitblue29165.0Find an equivalent from a main suit supplier.
Marquette Already stopped已停止补货
100% wool · nailshead pinhead · 255 g/m²
MarquetteMarquette · YSS021-12 · LE Gioventuclose 关闭 ✕
YSS021-12suitnavy blue21879.0No substitute needed. We have already stopped reordering it.
Huisen · 1 fabric(s) · 35,112 RMB / 12m
Deventer To source需要寻找
80% wool / 20% terylene · twill · 280 g/m²
DeventerDeventer · A4010-9 · Huisenclose 关闭 ✕
A4010-9suitcharcoal1,25428.0Find an equivalent from a main suit supplier.
Langyi · 3 fabric(s) · 34,247 RMB / 12m · nothing to do — we have already stopped buying all of them. This supplier closes by itself. 已全部停止补货,该供应商自然结束
Webster Already stopped已停止补货
80% polyester / 20% viscosa · nailshead pinhead · 206 g/m²
WebsterWebster · LY300914-3 · Langyiclose 关闭 ✕
LY300914-3suitcobalt blue72522.3No substitute needed. We have already stopped reordering it.
Hazel Already stopped已停止补货
85% polyester / 14% viscosa / 1% spandex · 227 g/m²
HazelHazel · LY301240-18# · Langyiclose 关闭 ✕
LY301240-18#suitbeige43425.8No substitute needed. We have already stopped reordering it.
Whents Already stopped已停止补货
100% wool · sharkskin · 260 g/m²
WhentsWhents · 912370LGY · Langyiclose 关闭 ✕
912370LGYsuitblue9374.0No substitute needed. We have already stopped reordering it.
Qingfeng · 1 fabric(s) · 27,370 RMB / 12m
Giuliano To source需要寻找
100% wool · serge · 280 g/m²
GiulianoGiuliano · BA9-2-1 · Qingfengclose 关闭 ✕
BA9-2-1suitblack238115.0Find an equivalent from a main suit supplier.
NJC · 2 fabric(s) · 21,168 RMB / 12m
Sorell To source需要寻找
100% cotton · velvet · 300 g/m²
SorellSorell · 242210 · NJCclose 关闭 ✕
242210suitonyx37836.0Find an equivalent from a main suit supplier.
Oakford To source需要寻找
100% cotton · velvet · 312 g/m²
OakfordOakford · 242211 · NJCclose 关闭 ✕
242211suitnavy blue28027.0Find an equivalent from a main suit supplier.
Xinya · 1 fabric(s) · 19,280 RMB / 12m
Wickford To source需要寻找
74% polyester / 26% viscosa · plain weave · 185 g/m²
WickfordWickford · 71268-6 · Xinyaclose 关闭 ✕
71268-6suitiron grey48240.0Find an equivalent from a main suit supplier.
Jyl · 1 fabric(s) · 18,796 RMB / 12m · nothing to do — we have already stopped buying all of them. This supplier closes by itself. 已全部停止补货,该供应商自然结束
Farlie Already stopped已停止补货
80% wool / 20% terylene · 240 g/m²
FarlieFarlie · 1216-1 · Jylclose 关闭 ✕
1216-1suitslate50837.0No substitute needed. Too small a supplier to keep open for one fabric.
Jackson · 1 fabric(s) · 14,421 RMB / 12m
Black Paisley To source需要寻找
45% cotton / 55% polyester · velvet · 346 g/m²
Black PaisleyBlack Paisley · D14003-8 · Jacksonclose 关闭 ✕
D14003-8suitonyx43733.0Find an equivalent from a main suit supplier.
DINGZHEN · 3 fabric(s) · 8,616 RMB / 12m · nothing to do — we have already stopped buying all of them. This supplier closes by itself. 已全部停止补货,该供应商自然结束
Soho Already stopped已停止补货
100% cotton · knitted · 210 g/m²
SohoSoho · ChenShan B003/34 · DINGZHENclose 关闭 ✕
ChenShan B003/34shirtdark blue9437.0No substitute needed. Too small to be worth replacing.
Deptford Already stopped已停止补货
100% cotton · knitted · 210 g/m²
DeptfordDeptford · ChenShan B003/26 · DINGZHENclose 关闭 ✕
ChenShan B003/26shirtcharcoal8037.0No substitute needed. Too small to be worth replacing.
Mayfair Already stopped已停止补货
100% cotton · knitted · 210 g/m²
MayfairMayfair · ChenShan B003/25 · DINGZHENclose 关闭 ✕
ChenShan B003/25shirtkhaki green5937.0No substitute needed. Too small to be worth replacing.
Huahong · 1 fabric(s) · 8,568 RMB / 12m
Navy Paisley To source需要寻找
45% cotton / 55% polyester · velvet · 346 g/m²
Navy PaisleyNavy Paisley · D14003-17 · Huahongclose 关闭 ✕
D14003-17suitnavy blue25234.0Find an equivalent from a main suit supplier.
Andrew · 2 fabric(s) · 2,520 RMB / 12m
Bridal Silver Keep保留
100% polyester · jacquard · 280 g/m²
Bridal SilverBridal Silver · mj003 · Andrewclose 关闭 ✕
mj003suitsilver5040.0We are keeping this one. Ceremony waistcoats only — low volume is normal for that line and we need it for the range. Look for an equivalent silver ceremony jacquard from a main suit supplier, but only if the MOQ works at ~50 m/year. If nobody can, we stay with Andrew.
Bridal Amethist Already stopped已停止补货
100% polyester · jacquard · 280 g/m²
Bridal AmethistBridal Amethist · mj006 · Andrewclose 关闭 ✕
mj006suitpastel purple1340.0No substitute needed. We have already stopped reordering it.

4 · 2,000 m production lots on the top sellers 2,000 米大货议价

We need from you 需要你们准备
  1. Price at 2,000 m vs the price at our current volume, RMB/m incl. VAT and shipping. Our target is in the table. 2,000 米的价格,与现价对比。目标价见表
  2. Cost of the finish we ask for, its minimum lot, and its effect on lead time. 后整理的费用、最小批量、对交期的影响
  3. Whether the finish changes hand-feel, weight or shrinkage — and a treated hanger, because if the quality changes we validate the hand-feel during the visit. 后整理是否改变手感、克重或缩率,并提供处理后的挂样
  4. Will the mill hold the run for us and ship against our orders? For how long, and does holding it change the price? We do not want all 2,000 m delivered at once. 工厂能否为我们留存大货、按订单分批发货?可留存多久?是否影响价格?我们不要一次性交货

Two things for every fabric: (a) the price at 2,000 m, and (b) the cost of applying the finish we want to our own run. Our target price is 10% below the reference price — that is the ask, not a limit; a better number is welcome.

#Fabric面料Code编码Supplier供应商Type品类12m usage12月用量Reference RMB/m参考价Our target at 2,000 m我们的目标价Finish we want希望增加的功能
1
Sunders
78% terylene / 18% rayon / 4% spandex · twill · 210 g/m²
SundersSunders · 1086 - 23 · Shaoxingclose 关闭 ✕
1086 - 23Shaoxingsuit10,63919.6
new card · today 17.6
17.6Wrinkle resistance 抗皱
New card 1086.
2
Karels
78% terylene / 18% rayon / 4% spandex · twill · 210 g/m²
KarelsKarels · 1086 - 21 · Shaoxingclose 关闭 ✕
1086 - 21Shaoxingsuit8,31019.6
new card · today 17.6
17.6Wrinkle resistance 抗皱
New card 1086.
3
Mayfield
100% cotton · poplin · 110 g/m²
MayfieldMayfield · 041727-01 · Jamesclose 关闭 ✕
041727-01Jamesshirt10,28318.8
new card · today 18.4
16.9Easy care + long-lasting white 免烫·持久白
The new oxford 121346 (Mashen). Volume is Mayfield + Woodsdatlei ≈ 10,300 m/year.
4
Robin Hood
64% polyester / 36% viscosa · twill · 280 g/m²
Robin HoodRobin Hood · 03-03230 · JRLclose 关闭 ✕
03-03230JRLsuit4,62234.030.6Wrinkle resistance 抗皱
5
Oberon
80% polyester / 20% viscosa · twill · 170 g/m²
OberonOberon · SD2208 · Songdaclose 关闭 ✕
SD2208Songdasuit3,45128.0−10%
on the upgraded quality
Heavier + wrinkle resistance 加重·抗皱
Price only makes sense on the upgraded quality — see Task 1.
6
Blazies
78% terylene / 18% rayon / 4% spandex · twill · 210 g/m²
BlaziesBlazies · 1086 - 19 · Shaoxingclose 关闭 ✕
1086 - 19Shaoxingsuit3,23619.6
new card · today 17.6
17.6Wrinkle resistance 抗皱
New card 1086.
7
Hurley
100% linen · plain weave · 234 g/m²
HurleyHurley · 010#28 · Zhongmaclose 关闭 ✕
010#28Zhongmasuit2,59246.541.9Anti-crease + dimensional stability 抗皱·尺寸稳定
Price commitment only, no delivery — 13.9 months of stock.
8
Kaliman
98% cotton / 2% spandex · twill · 138 g/m²
KalimanKaliman · CAKQW04451-2000830-1-SC · Luth.-Maggieclose 关闭 ✕
CAKQW04451-2000830-1-SCLuth.-Maggieshirt2,50934.731.2Keep all current finishes 保持现有功能
No price increase accepted.
9
Vailly
100% linen · plain weave · 150 g/m²
VaillyVailly · LFA812179-7 · Sammyclose 关闭 ✕
LFA812179-7Sammysuit2,27254.949.4Anti-crease + dimensional stability 抗皱·尺寸稳定
10
Ember
30% linen / 70% viscosa · 211 g/m²
EmberEmber · 813#25 · Zhongmaclose 关闭 ✕
813#25Zhongmasuit2,23421.419.3Anti-crease + dimensional stability 抗皱·尺寸稳定
Price commitment only, no delivery — 27 months of stock.
11
Khadijah
50% linen / 50% cotton · herringbone · 210 g/m²
KhadijahKhadijah · LFXD180750-5 · Sammyclose 关闭 ✕
LFXD180750-5Sammysuit2,10534.230.8Anti-crease + dimensional stability 抗皱·尺寸稳定
12
Edwards
30% linen / 70% viscosa · 211 g/m²
EdwardsEdwards · 813#38 · Zhongmaclose 关闭 ✕
813#38Zhongmasuit1,95221.419.3Anti-crease + dimensional stability 抗皱·尺寸稳定
11.6 months of stock.
13
Helton
80% linen / 20% cotton · broadcloth · 155 g/m²
HeltonHelton · WF8317-1 · Zhongmaclose 关闭 ✕
WF8317-1Zhongmashirt1,88024.622.1Anti-crease + long-lasting white 抗皱·持久白
14
Lindsay
100% cotton · 111 g/m²
LindsayLindsay · 043876-01 · Jamesclose 关闭 ✕
043876-01Jamesshirt1,66319.317.4Easy care 免烫

Fabrics that are leaving the collection — Beverly, Seren, Bologna — and the current Wiggins quality are deliberately not on this list. Do not quote runs for them.

5 · Outerwear — show us what you can do 外套:请给我们看你们能做什么

We need from you 需要你们准备
  1. Nothing to prepare from our side. Show us — or take us to see — whatever you think is worth seeing: fabrics, constructions, finished pieces, mills, tailors. 我们这边不需要准备。请带我们看你们认为值得看的:面料、工艺、成衣、工厂、裁缝
  2. We want to understand what the factories and tailors are able to develop. We are collecting ideas, not buying. 我们想了解工厂和裁缝能开发什么。只是收集想法,不是采购
  3. Half a day during the visit week is enough. Tell us which day suits you. 访问周内半天即可。请告诉我们哪天方便
6,447 mouterwear fabric used in 12 months 近 12 个月外套面料用量
41coat fabrics with sales 有销售的外套面料

Our outerwear range is small next to suits and shirts, and it is the one area where we have no plan yet. That is exactly why we want to see options. 这是我们目前还没有计划的品类。